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By Virginia Nursery
24 September 2021

Learn how to identify & eradicate the weeds around your home once and for all!


Dandelion
A perennial weed that produces yellow daisy-like flowers, followed by dainty white seed-heads. Dandelion have a long tap root, making it relatively easy to pull out in one piece by hand. When using weedkill to eradicate dandelion, multiple applications are usually required.

Recommended treatments:


Thistle
Thistle is a broad leaf, hairy weed with spines at the leaf margins. Thistle is particularly tough to kill throughout winter whilst in dormancy, so it is best to start herbicide treatment at the start of spring. Spraying before it flowers will also be most effective.

Recommended treatments:

Creeping Oxalis
Creeping Oxalis moves throughout the garden by growing new roots from wherever the stems touch the soil. It has clover shaped leaves and small yellow flowers. Oxalis is easily spread throughout the lawn and between front and back gardens by your lawn mower.

Recommended treatments:

Onion Weed
Onion weed is a perennial bulb that has a strong onion scent when crushed. It is hard to eradicate because whilst the herbicides kill the parent bulbs, new unaffected bulbs sprout so multiple applications are usually required.


Recommended treatments:

Winter Grass
Winter grass (Poa annua) is a really common weed that invades lawns in SA. A healthy mature lawn can outcompete winter grass so it is really important to keep up your fertiliser regime throughout the year.


Recommended treatments:


Paspalum
Paspalum can overtake your lawn & garden very quickly. It is an extremely tough and hardy weed that is difficult to remove by hand. We recommend pruning off the foliage and poisoning the crown for best results. Repeat applications may be required.

Recommended treatments:



Browse our selection of herbicides here.
Have a question? Send us an enquiry! We're more than happy to help.


By Virginia Nursery
18 September 2021


Citrus are are evergreen, usually self fertile, and only grow as small to medium sized trees. Due to many years of cultivation, many newer varieties are seedless, thornless and better suited to container planting, making them more suitable to small and family-friendly gardens.


Eureka Lemon

The Eureka Lemon produces thick skinned, juicy fruit with few to no seeds. It also usually grows few to no thorns, making it a family-friendly addition to the home garden. Eureka fruits almost year round, with the heaviest crop throughout Summer. Suitable espalier tree.
Height: 3-6m
Width: 3-4m


Tahitian Lime

The Tahitian Lime produces almost seedless, smooth skinned, pale green fruit. The flesh the best of all varieties, very juicy with a strong flavour and high acidity. It has some thorns and a spreading habit, making it a suitable espalier tree. The Tahitian Lime with fruit from mid autumn to spring, with the main crop through winter. Pick fruit when green.
Height: 2-5m
Width: 2-4m

Washington Navel Orange

The Washington Navel Orange has a rich, sweet flavour and easy-to-peal rind. It is also seedless, making it the perfect eating orange. The tree has a dense, rounded habit. Fruit will mature from late autumn to early spring, with the heaviest crop mid winter. Fruit hangs on the tree well and is best eaten fresh as it can become bitter if stored for more than 2 days.
Height: 3-4m
Width: 3-4m


Japanese Seedless Mandarin
The Japanese Seedless Mandarin produces large, smooth skinned fruit that is both seedless and easy to peal. With its mildly sweet flavour, and fruit that keeps well if refridgerated, it is popular for home gardens and lunch boxes. The Japanese Seedless is an early season variety and can be harvested from May to July. Pick fruit as soon as it is ripe. The tree has a low vigour.

Height: 3-4m
Width: 2-4m


Planting Guide
All citrus require a sunny site, ideally protected from frosts and prevailing winds. If container planting, choose a pot with good drainage that is at least 60cm x 60cm and use premium potting mix.

Mix organic matter into the soil before planting. Dig a hole twice the width of the container. Remove the plant from the container and place it into the hole so that the soil level is the same as the surrounding ground. Fill the hole firmly, and water in well, even if the soil is moist. Apply a 10cm thick layer of mulch around the tree, leaving at least a 20cm gap around the base of the trunk.

For more information, see our Planting Guide 101 article below.

General Care

Water immediately after planting then repeat next day. Water twice weekly for the first three weeks, then at weekly intervals for the first growing season. Also make sure to water well during the warmer months with regular deep soakings, especially when fruit is forming. In containers, water every three to four days, more often in hot weather. Do not water the trunk. Most citrus trees reach fruiting maturity at 2-3 years of age, until which you should pick off any fruit that develops to encourage better yields once the tree matures.

Fertilise throughout spring and late summer, as well as once in early autumn or as per the manufacturers recommendations. Do not allow the fertiliser to touch the trunk.

Prune in late spring, removing inside weak growth and to shape the tree. Remove any small fruit that grow within the first two years to encourage much better quality fruit in the coming seasons.

By Virginia Nursery
13 September 2021


By Virginia Nursery
6 September 2021

"Oops... I killed another plant."

Does this sound like you? Let's take a look at the most common reasons plants die & how to fix it.

1. Over Watering
Yes its possible! Throughout winter in particular, and with most indoor plants, if the edges of the leaves are turning yellow then brown, its likely over watering. Consider the following;
Step 1. Does it really need a water? For most indoor plants, if the top 2cm of soil is still wet, definitely not!
Step 2. Stop using a saucer. Keep your plants in a nursery pot inside a decorative pot and take it out to water it. Give it a good soak and let it drain before putting it back.


2. Under Watering
Throughout the warmer months, most plants will require weekly deep watering. Young plants, seedlings, fruit and vegetables may require daily watering throughout the hottest periods. If you find your plant shriveled up without any colour left, it most likely died of dehydration.
If your pot plants are wilting, sit them in a half filled bucket of water with added seasol for 10 minutes. If your plants are wilting in the ground, soak them with a gentle shower setting on your hose for 3-10 minutes depending on the size of the plant/tree, and again the following day. It is always best to water your plants early in the morning, ideally with an irrigation system for even and consistent flow.


3. The Wrong Environment
Most plants have an optimal position in which they grow best in the garden. Many people don't mistreat their plants as such, but are just trying to grow them in the wrong spot. For example, many indoor plants just don't receive adequate light.
The key is to do your research and seek advise on the best plants for your garden. Things to consider outdoors include exposure to wind and frost, proximity to fencing (foliage can be burnt in summer), soil type and garden facing (direction of house & garden). For indoor plants, consider light, exposure to heating and cooling systems, pets and children.

By Virginia Nursery
3 September 2021

Planting Guide 101
We understand that your plants are an investment. Follow these simple steps for success!

1. Water your plant before planting.
You don't have to plant your new plants as soon as you get home from the nursery. As long as you sit them in the right position and water regularly, most can wait happily in their nursery pot for a little while until you're ready to plant. Water the plant the day you will plant it so that it isn't stressed and the soil holds its shape when you transfer it from the pot. 

2. Choose the right position.
Follow the label guide. For example, if it requires a sunny position, this means it will need to be planted in a site that receives 80-100% of unbroken sunshine each day. If the plant requires well drained soil, you need to make sure the soil is light and rich. If you have clay soil, you may need to do some work to incorporate gypsum and organic matter days prior to planting.

3. Dig in organic matter.
For best results, you should always incorporate some dynamic lifter, rapid raiser or organic matter (compost or manure) into the soil before planting. To do so, follow the application rates on the packaging, mix thoroughly with a shovel and garden fork, then water in well.

4. Dig the hole & plant.
Once the space is prepared, dig a hole twice the width as the container but to the same depth. Gently squeeze around the edges of the pot to loosen the soil. Spread your hand over the top of the pot around the base of the plant, and encourage the plant and soil to lift from the pot. Transfer it into the hole. You do not need to tease the roots apart unless it is root bound. Gently backfill the hole.

6. Water in well.
Give the plant a good soaking, even if the soil is moist. You may wish to apply mulch or pine bark to insulate the roots and suppress weeds. Do not mulch right up to the base or stem of the plant; leave a small gap for evaporation.

7. Water regularly until established.
Young and newly planted plants need extra care until established. Usually this period is around 12 weeks for perennials. Water frequently, ideally every few days for the first couple of weeks and slowly reduce it to twice a week, then once a week until established.

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